“But what do you do in Madagascar?!?”

This is probably the most answered question during the last 14 months stay on the red island (soon to be replaced by “what did you do in Madagascar?!?”). I think that even our family members still don’t have it clear. Today is our last day in Madagascar, and time has come to tell what we’ve done here.

We were hired by SIK a Norwegian Centre for Intercultural Communication. Financed by Fredskorpet they have an exchange with the University of Toliara. Two persons from Norway go to Toliara and two Malagasy go to Stavanger to do research work in an archive that has plenty of materials on Madagascar that is not available there.
In Toliara we had mainly 2 tasks: run an independent research (we could choose the topic), and teach English at the University Language Centre.

The second task occupied most of our time in the beginning (together with a basic Malagasy language course), as we had to prepare the courses, re-adjust them to the capacity and needs of the students, find material, etc. We had to find a way of teaching that could fit our capacities and the goals of the students.

As for the research, the topics we were planning to investigate needed to be changed due to the political unrest that started in the end of January 2009. At that time offices weren’t reliable, and honestly we didn’t even know if we were going to be evacuated or not. During those weeks we tried to rethink our researches and we found two topics that interested us, that are related to the crisis and that we hoped were feasible even given the situation. Our goal is to produce a relatively short article accessible to a larger public than just scholars.

Birger is looking at the role of the Malagasy High Constitutional Court in the political crisis. A court that declared the power shift in Madagascar was legal, while it was generally labelled as a coup d’etat all over the world. The article is not just for lawyers, on the contrary it can be entertaining as it tries to understand also the (strange?) logics behind the HCC’s decisions.

I am working on a case of land grabbing. Daewoo Corporation was planning to lease 1.5 million hectares in Madagascar to produce corn and palm oil. Those products would have been sent to South Korea to meet internal food needs. The “Daewoo case” is acknowledged to be one of the causes of the unrest in the country leading to the power shift. I’m trying to understand why this case provoked so much the Malagasy, as well as what the project was really about, what procedures were followed and what happened to it… So far it has been a very interesting topic, because it permitted me to work with cultural and historical aspects as well as economical and political ones, furthermore I had to look into the very complicated yet interesting Malagasy land management (and titles) system.

It is soon time to leave Madagascar and go back to Norway. We still have a month ahead to finish up our work…

Last day at the English Centre

Some of our students presented their mini-projects and received their certificate on Saturday. They wrote about Democracy, Global Warming and Teachers' Self Training. We supervised their work, and it was nice to be there when they presented it. After we had a small "veloma" (goodbye) party, nice words, songs and even presents were offered... we also started a small "library" for the students... here some photos from the day:

An interesting article....

This article from The Guardian is worth reading:

Madagascar's capital is like a glimpse of medieval London, with a layer of grime
In parts of a city that is a wild architectural hybrid, it would not be surprising to see Falstaff emptying a bucket out of a window

From the sky I could see man's harvest of destruction. Flying into Madagascar, I looked down on vast tracts of naked planet that were once thick with trees. Nine-tenths of the original forest cover on this island, one of the world's most precious Edens, has been lost to human rapaciousness.

My bus bumped along the road from a modest airport towards the capital, Antananarivo, which means "city of the thousand", supposedly because a thousand warriors once protected it. We wound through streets that long ago became inadequate for the teeming traffic that ebbs and flows, on wheels and feet, through a narrow corridor of shopfronts and market stalls – everyone has something to sell.

We crawled behind motorcyclists and minibuses, pedestrians balancing giant bags or cardboard boxes on their heads, and ancient taxis whose drivers are known to carry petrol inside plastic water bottles and to glide downhill with the engine off to save every drop. We were on a hillside and occasionally we could look down into the basin and see farmers wading through lush paddy fields.

On the horizon loomed a gigantic and unattractive hotel. It was built by the Chinese, we were told, to be ready for an African Union summit, but when Madagascar experienced a bloody coup earlier this year, the summit was cancelled and the hotel became a monstrous white elephant.
Read more...

Green party

Madagascar gets a green party: Hasin’i Madagasikara (website). According to an article on Courrier International, the party has the goal of promoting sustainable development in the country. The leader of the new party interviewed by the newspaper highlights the importance of making land legally accessible for the Malagasy, and the central role of water that should not be privatized (Madagascar seems to have ceded the use of a river in the south east to the Saudi Arabia). An action that, to my point of view, clashes totally with the claims the HAT had against the leasing of land to Daewoo Corporation (Financial Times).

Anyway, if you’re interested in reading the full article (in French) click here: INTERVIEW • "Madagascar ne doit pas vendre son eau douce"

Academic week

Toliara is slowly going back to the warm summer and we start to feel it. We had a weekend with almost no running water in the house (just in the night), and with numerous power cuts. However, we work on our researches (time has come to produce some text) and we teach English. So, lately our days are quite calm.

Birger had a different lecture the other day, as it wasn’t for our students at the University English Teaching Centre, but for law students following English classes. Solo, a colleague at the Centre, gave Birger the challenge of lecturing about the European Union to students with variable levels both in English and in law. Anyway, he did well and the students seemed to enjoy the challenge and the topic. They asked a lot of questions, from why Turkey is not in the EU to what’s the name of the Norwegian king (!?!?!) and how do you say hello and good bye in Norwegian. I guess it ended up being a quite exotic law/English lecture.
After giving “our” students a challenging lecture on “academic writing”, we attended a very interesting seminar on “Republic and Democracy” at the University (on a Saturday afternoon). The event was organised by an association of Phd students, where one of our students William is a member. The topic was particularly interesting given the political events of the last months, in the country. Three professors briefly exposed some concepts concerning the topic of the seminar, and then an interesting debate took place. Questions and reflections went back and forth in the crowded room. Most of the reflections involved the Constitution, the challenge of building up a functioning democracy in a country with many illiterate voters, as well as the problem of corruption. The dean of the university did a brilliant job moderating the debate.


But the day had still a lot to give, after the debate we were invited to a reception that turned into a small party with the professors and the Phd students. Tongues loosened with the help of Malagasy rum and the never absent THB (Three Horses Beer). It is impressive to see how, despite the poor facilities that this city offers, people with strong desire get informed about what happens all over the world. From the Italian and Russian mafia, to the role of the former Belgian Prime Minister, to the feeling of belonging in Madagascar, we talked about several things in French, English and Malagasy… always in the Malagasy way: a sip of rum for the ancestors first, and a speech to wrap it up!

An update on the crisis in Madagascar

We, not to mention the Malagasy population, were hoping that the political crisis was going towards a solution. Three former Presidents and the acting president of the transition had two meetings in Maputo. It seemed like they had come to an agreement concerning a consensus transitional government, but I guess the agreement from the first meeting was just hiding their differences. During the second meeting, the four movements were not able to agree on the positions in the transitional government.

Some days after returning from Maputo, the ”de facto” president Andry Rajoelina, decided to ”implement” the agreement by creating his own new ”consensus” government. This decision seems to have two major consequences:

-The three other movements are now united against Rajoelina, something that 6 months back would have been nothing less than a miracle. These movements are led by a dubious bunch, three former presidents: Albert Zafy (impeached for corruption in 1996), Didier Ratisraka (the dictator given the boot by the people/Ravolomanana in 2002), Marc Ravalomanana (chased out of the country by ex-DJ Rajoelina, his followers and the military in 2009).

-The people in Tana seem to be reacting against Rajoelinas movement’s unilateralism and lack of democratic spirit. (All demonstrations have so far been suppressed). The “united” opposition has called for a big demonstration the 20th of September, and a large turnout is to be expected.

So far it seems like the demonstrations have been concentrated to Tana. We hope that they will be kept peaceful. However, if there is one thing we’ve learned from living here for almost a year: to predict what will happen when Malagasy politicians are calling the shots is close to impossible.

Back to Toliara

Ehm, yes, the blog hasn’t been updated lately. Sorry for that. After some busy times and vacation, we’re back.

Back to Madagascar, this time we got our courtesy visa quickly: 24h and we were ready to leave Tana! With an Air Madagascar plane this time, as the Route National 7 is gorgeous, but also very long. We sent part of our luggage by taxi brousse (Air France allowed us 46Kg each, while internal AirMad flights allow 20Kg), and everything arrived safe 2 days after us.
We expected to have a hectic start, as a Fredskorpet conference was to be held in Toliara starting from two days later. We met with Bartelemy, Lucien David and De l’Or, to get an update on what was left to do, to discover that all was finished and we could just wait the arrival of Kåre (our responsible from SIK) and Saliuo (from FK), to start working on the very last things.
Friday 21st, just before dinner we discovered that some people from Tana couldn’t make it to the conference, but most of the people we booked meals and hotels from, had no problems to adjust to the new number (valid for Etoile de Mer, Esterel and Chez Andrea in Sarondrano; a bit less valid for Palétuvier).
We wont describe here the conference, but we would like to say that everything went fine, and we were overwhelmed with the level of participation during the work. The meeting had as main goal to create a Malagasy FK network, and people worked very good together. Most of the people there were Malagasy who participated to an FK exchange to Norway before. It means that they lived and worked in Norway for several months (as we’re doing here), and they all speak Malagasy, French, English and…Norwegian! Some of them even know some words of Italian!
Everyday we meet people (expatriates), who don’t believe Malagasy people are interested to work hard to improve things in the country. Worst, we meet people who think Malagasy don’t have the capacity to do so. Well, what we can say loud and strong is that at the conference there was plenty of clever and motivated people who have plans for this country. Malagasy who are not naïve, and are ready to work hard and long to ameliorate others’ life condition. FK seems to be there to support those resourceful people, and we’re very glad for that.
The FK conference in Toliara was a great opportunity for us, to work together with interesting people and enrich our experience!

So, back to Toliara: lot of energy, positive thoughts, and all good!

Sarondrano (south of Toliara):





A little present we made for those attending the conference:


Folkloristic evening, students from the university of Toliara perform dances for us:






Few days after the end of the conference we got an invitation to go to Lavanono, very south of Madagascar, and then to Forth Dauphin east side. Could we refuse? Not.
This was a trip we wanted to do, so now we did it in a few intense days. Antonie, who is doing research for her Phd, invited us. She will have to forgive us if we say it imperfectly, but she does research on the population’s perception of the QMM-Rio Tinto mining activities in Forth Dauphin. A very interesting topic we cannot get too tired of discussing. With her we also had the opportunity of exchanging opinion, material and tips for each others research work, while travelling trough some very interesting areas of Madagascar, were traditions and landscapes are very different from Toliara.
We recommend Lavanono if you like surfing in a beautiful surrounding; and Forth Dauphin as the city has some lovely beaches all around! Great experience.

On the way to Forth Dauphin from Lavanono:


Market in Ampanihy:


Market in Lavanono:


Sculpture from a Mahafaly tomb:


Lavanono:




Market in Lavanono:


Lavanono:


Forth Dauphin:


Forth Dauphin from the plane looks like southern Italy!


Around Toliara:


Market in Lavanono:


Lunch in Forth Dauphin:


Lavanono:




Toliara from the airplane:

Market day

Things you can have fun buying at the market in Toliara for much less than 10€ (80NOK):

1Kg white flower
1Kg cornflower
2Kg Malagasy rice
Potatoes
Squashes
Aubergines
Peppers
Carrots
Tomatoes
Onions
Garlic
Limes
Oranges
Bananas
Green Bananas
Mangoes
Avocados
Basil
Parsley
Coriander
Plus a couple of things I only know by Malagasy name: the white carrot-like vegetables, and those fruits looking like small yellow mangoes.

Buon Appetito!

Crisis and University

Madagascar has now 2 presidents, 2 prime ministers, two of everything. What is not doubling is money, jobs, and resources for the people. Probably the university is not on top of the major worries during a political crisis, nevertheless students are suffering from this situation too.

The university of Toliara has very little means. Not sure if they are given very little means, or the money addressed to the university are getting lost on the way. The point here is that in order to study, to learn, to become the society of the future, you need some basic stuff; very basic sometime, nevertheless necessary.
Torun H. Rognes is one of our predecessors here in Toliara. Like us, she was doing a research. She decided to look into the work conditions of the students. Her article is not flattering, but it is published in Talily (special number 13-14-15/2008), a university journal.
The university campus is at about 5km from the city centre and is lacking the most basic facilities. It hosts about 2000 students, but there are NO functioning toilets or showers. The students are forced to go “in the nature” around the campus, even at night…


the campus:


The rooms are not sufficient to host the growing number of students, so rooms planned to be shared in two are shared in four or more (4 beds, all the personal belongings, 1 table in common, a cooking corner, in about 10-12 square meters). Some students are placed in rooms initially constructed for other purposes, they hang plastic foils to get privacy from other students, also because those rooms are often not divided by gender.
We visited some of them, the place to cook consists of small electric elements, with no switch; students have to very carefully connect the cables to use them to cook their rice.



The classrooms are not enough for all the students and the courses. According to Torun, the acoustic is not adequate, and there are not enough chairs for everybody: students have to bring chairs from their own rooms.
The teaching hours are also heavy: courses start around 7.30 and go on for about 8h, only interrupted by a lunch break of about 1h. The professors, don’t get paid very well, so they are often doing side researches to make a living. The result is that they concentrate their work with the students in few months or weeks, and they are absent for other months.
Furthermore, the university can’t provide professors for all the courses so some of them are just “missionaries” from other universities: they have 10-12 hour courses per day, for 7 days a week for a couple of weeks; then 1 or 2 days after the end of the course, the students have to take their exam.
Clearly, this rhythm is not allowing the students to have a normal learning process.
Torun reports also that the university library is small, with 18 tables and about 8000 titles, most of them quite old. A few other libraries offer some more titles, but have quite limited opening hours.
Without going too deep into the amount of computers and the access to internet, we can just say that they are almost non existent and that students write their papers and thesis by hand, so they have to pay someone to write the last version on a PC. With three main consequences:
-students can’t access enough resources (internet),
-they often don’t know how to use a computer (!!),
-and they miss the very important learning process that is done while revising a paper.
We could continue by telling that scholarships for students are few and small, and that many need to work beside their studies. We could tell about the danger of prostitution for the poorest girls (especially hoping to get a vazaha, maybe to marry). Or tell about the impossibility for most of the students to travel, in order to get material or do research. But you probably got the idea…

What we can add is that there is a crisis, and a lack of resources.
The problems described above are only getting worse.
Furthermore, the electricity is scarce in Toliara, and at the University campus it is often without it for many days, leaving the students in the dark…
How is the society of the future going to be, when even the privileged group that can go to University, are suffering from impossible working conditions?





Italiano: abbiate pieta' e' troppo lungo... magari tra qualche giorno. ;-)

Tiko

The Tiko agency, some months after the looting. People took every single stone (see older post to check how it was before).

L'agenzia Tiko rasa al suolo, dopo aver preso tutti i prodotti all'interno, poi il tetto, ogni singola pietra e' stata smontata (e apparentemente venduta). Qui c'e' la foto di com'era prima.

Photos

Here some photos from the last months (ecco alcune foto degli ultimi mesi):


Birger and Christine:




Andavadoka


Quando trovi un'auto con un guasto... la devi spostare!










La spiaggia di Ambatomilo, nord di Toliara (il posto dove Serena potrebbe aprire il baretto). Ambatomilo's beach, north of Toliara.

More troubles

Again. Yes, unfortunately it is happening again.
Yesterday the pro-Ravalomanana were demonstrating. They met a strong repression by the army: 2 people died and many are injured. The Min. of defence declared on RFI that there was no shooting... but by hearing the registration of the protests and by looking at some photos, it seems very well the opposite.
NB Toliara is calm.

More info:
in english
http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/africa/8008979.stm
in french
http://www.topmada.com/2009/04/20/repression-meurtriere-de-la-manifestation-des-legalistes-photos/
http://rfi.fr/actufr/articles/112/article_80329.asp

Italiano: Ancora. Sta succedendo di nuovo. Ieri i sostenitori di Ravalomanana stavano dimonstrando, fino a quando l'esercito ha sparato: 2 morti e diversi feriti. Il Min. della difesa ha dichiarato alla radio RFI che l'esercito non ha sparato... l'audio della protesta e le foto sembrano dimonstrare il contrario.
NB A Toliara tutto e' calmo.

What now?

Trying not to think of the tragedy in Abruzzo, I put my head down in the local newspapers... and I get into a different “tragedy”: the situation in Madagascar.
Some of you asked us for an update, well, here a brief one.

As you probably know, Ravalomanana had to flee the country (he went to Swaziland to plead his case to the SADC), and Rajoelina is now the president of HAT (the high transition authority), basically the President until new elections (2010? 2011?). Many countries and international organizations have condemned the new power, labelling it as unconstitutional and speaking of coup d’etat. Supporters of the now former President are protesting in the streets of Tana, but the new power repressed some of those protests, also trough military means. Maybe forgetting the freedom of speech and democracy values, they where shouting for just few weeks ago.

In Toliara everything is calm, too calm. Restaurants and hotels are semi deserted, and tourists are basically unseen. The economy of the country is uncertain as many of the international donors froze the flow of money due to the nature of the current government. Furthermore, with this instability in the country, who is going to invest money in Madagascar? Who is going to organize an exotic and relaxing travel here?

The HAT reduced the price of the oil in the market, the prices of transport in some areas, the prices of bread. The last one came out as flop: people noticed that the bread became also smaller; making it actually more expensive for big families (those buying 1 baguette for 300Ar, now need to buy 2 baguettes at 200Ar… so 400Ar). The newspapers report the flop, but only in their 5th or 6th page. The youngest head of state in the world is in the meanwhile touring the country, making promises, and offering Zebus. We actually catch a glimpse of him parading the streets of Toliara with people flocking around him.

Going on with the newspapers reading, we can even find news about Tiko. Do you remember Ravalomanana’s private empire? The one producing and distributing milk derivates, oil, etc? Well, after the looting of the retail Tiko stores, the factory was still functioning (but not delivering) in Antsirabe. I said “was” because few days ago the factory was looted too, apparently by the military troops of a new auto-proclaimed general. Since than, Tiko is publishing adds on newspapers, reporting the “unjust” actions of HAT. According to the new power, those actions are justified, as Ravalomanana hasn’t paid taxes in the last years. Probably true. Nevertheless the HAT hasn’t said what will happen to the 3.500 employee that worked at Tiko. Nor what will happen to those transporting their products. Nor what will happen to those selling products to Tiko (milk from Fifamanor, etc.). Nor what the stores will sell now, as Tiko had the monopoly of some products in the country.

We noticed that at the Toliara famous disco, girls under 18 are numerous, seeming less scared to get checked by the police. Another “old” rule enforced by Ravalomanana, a friend told me… while waiting to see if the HAT will enforce it too entrance seems free to everyone: a small sign of a more general anarchy in the air.

Ravalomanana is gone now, however he is announcing to come back soon. We again, wait to see what will happen…

Madagascar: Waiting and uncertainty follows “Red Saturday”

from http://www.afrika.no/Detailed/18010.html
By Venusia Vinciguerra and Lucien David (photo) for www. afrika.no in Madagascar | 03.03.2009



The Tiko stores are the property of Madagascar's president Ravalomanana. Many of them were looted during the unrest (Photo: Lucien David)


Antsirabe (Madagascar - Venusia Vinciguerra) - Uncertainty is now the most common feeling for the people living in Madagascar. The population, as well as the expatriates in the country, appears exhausted from the constant feeling that something big will soon happen, but then nothing seems to really happen.
Andry Rajoelina, former major of Antananarivo, proclaimed himself new head of state, and attempted to create a parallel administration and install his ministers into position. He started his “orange revolution” after president Ravalomanana closed his TV channel, VIVA TV, due to the broadcasting of an interview with the former president, Didier Ratsiraka.
The young Rajoelina called for a general strike in Antananarivo on January 26th, a strike that turned into a mass looting in the capital. The main factories and retails stores of Tiko, the president’s company, were attacked, robbed and destroyed. In addition, his TV and radio channels where destroyed, together with the national TV and radio channels, leaving most of Madagascar without broadcasts. The mass pillaging went on, destroying the few well functioning malls of the city, and emptying many rice storages, owned by privates. leaving the impression that the looting was not driven only by political intentions, but also by desperation or by opportunism.
The same escalation was witnessed the day after in other cities, as Antsirabe, Fianarantsoa, Mahajanga and Toliara, where Tiko storages and stores as well as rice reserves were emptied and vandalized. Looting continued over night between Tuesday 27th and Wednesday 28th. Reportedly about 100 people died or got injured, mostly due to accidents connected to the pillaging, while the army remained mostly an observer of the happenings. In Toliara there was a broad and massive participation, entire families carried as many rice bags as they could handle: on bikes, rickshaws, carts or on their shoulders. Also children were involved, and some made themselves thieves for a bag of orange juice, or for parts of broken toys. BIANCO, an anticorruption agency financed partly by Norway, was also vandalized: computers were stolen and sold, documents were thoroughly burned (!), and even windows, toilets, cables and roof’s components disappeared. The looting left the city of Toliara with a feeling of Wild West in the air. Stores remained closed for some days; especially those run by Indo-Pakistanis, who fear the anger of the Malagasy people against their commercial supremacy. Some goods are now scarce in the city: milk and butter, which are produced and distributed only by Tiko, but also oil is hard to find. Many foresee an increase of rice prices, the main staple for Malagasy people, and market prices for vegetables and fruits rose already.
Some weeks passed in uncertainty and apparent calmness, until Saturday 7th of February. Samedi Rouge (Red Saturday), as it is called by the Malagasy press, witnessed the shooting against the demonstrators who crossed the “red line” in front of the presidential palace in Antananarivo, making 28 victims (including a reporter), and numerous injured. A video reconstruction of the shooting is now being sold on DVDs and publicly screened in several Malagasy towns.
Ravalomanana did not recognize Rajoelina as a counterpart for negotiations in the beginning, and discharged and replaced him from his post as mayor of the capital. Predictably Rajoelina did not accept this decision, and went on to designate another replacement, leaving the city with two unelected mayors.
Finally on February 23rd, negotiations between Mark Ravalomanana and Andry Rajoelina started, with the assistance of representatives from the Council of Christian Churches in Madagascar (FFKM). Three meetings between the two contenders increased the hope for a peaceful solution. However, the hope diminished when the president did not personally attend the 4th meeting. Predictably Rajoelina declared the end of negotiations, and did not show up to the next meeting. Also the archbishop of Antananarivo, Odon Razanakolona, one of the facilitators, quit the negotiations, as he saw no developments. As a result, demonstration restarted, leading to two other fatalities in Fianarantsoa. UN Secretary General Ban Ki-moon appointed the former foreign minister of Mali, Tiebilé Dramé, as facilitator, and asked the archbishop to rejoin the negotiations.
The consequences of this political instability are numerous. Among others, the crisis of the tourism market, with nearly 100% cancellations, and 50% workers sent home according to the FHORM (Fédération des hôteliers et restaurateurs de Madagascar), and the Malagasy National Tourism Office, who made an official declaration asking the parties to quickly find an agreement. Another immediate consequence is the delay of the start of the new university year, with even the risk of a year cancellation due to lack of security (L’express de Madagascar, 28.02.2009).
Many are tired of the president’s actions, denouncing him of focusing on his own interests over those of the population. At the same time, it is not clear if the young businessman and former DJ Rajoelina will be the answer. It seems like the ex-major will continue his efforts to remove the president; but after the last events in Antananarivo, his popularity seems uncertain. Many see in this situation a repetition of Ravalomanana’s struggle to take the power from Didier Ratsiraka in 2002. However, there is a core difference: in 2002 the two contenders where conflicting over a contested election, while Rajoelina’s current request is not related to any electoral event.
Finally, this contest involves two merinas (the ethnic group of the highlands), and might not seem a fair play to the coastal population, who would like to see their ethnicities well represented, maybe by a president.
Uncertainty spreads in Madagascar, people wait.

- What is going on?

First of all, things seem to be more and more back to normal for most people in Madagascar. However, there are at least two people that are not living a normal life these days. The two main characters in this "wanna be democratic and non-violent coup d'etat like situation" are not doing anything that we find normal, considering the situation. As soon as we feel that we understand some of the motivations behind their actions, they go out and do something unpredictable.

The self-proclaimed president/ex-mayor, yesterday finally achieved one of his main goals, to physically install his "ministers" in four of the ministries. If he achieved this because he asked wifes and children of militaries to go in front of his supporters, I don't know (he actually didn't show up himself). According to reports, the presence of young girls dressed in orange (Orange Revolution, like in Ukraine) with mini-skirt (tbc), where especially noticable in front of the protestors. As could be expected, the military forces were so stunned by this move that they let the croud enter the empty ministry buildings.

The first one to take office as a "Minister" was our old friend from our troubled visa days, mr. directeur de Cabinet (see earlier blogpost) in the Ministere de l'Interieure. But our promoted friend didn't really last long. After the "orange movement" had celebrated their victory during the evening, the Ministries were once again brought back into the control of the president, by the help of the army.

While all this is going on, the negotiations between the two parties are apparently making some progress. The situation is getting more and more confusing. There could be a solution tomorrow, but more likely 6 months is a better guess. The good thing is that the violent conflict doesn't seem to be escalating. If any of the parties is seeming to gain support, it's the president's. However, at the moment none of them seems to have a high standing among the people. And for what these two are doing to the country, I totally understand them.
Get over with it - and let the people live their normal life!

(Forced) stay in Antsirabe

We are in the very nice town of Anstirabe. It is a mountain city at about 3h south of the capital Antananarivo. Here it’s summer, but the temperature is a lot lower than in Toliara. We arrived here on our attempt to go to Tana to receive our long awaited guests. As most of you know, they had to postpone their trip, and we stopped in Antsirabe (also to get some medical controls). We got welcomed by rain (it is the season now) and chilli temperature…especially for us, used to the torrid south. Against us, the fact that we came not well equipped for this fresh welcome, and could only go around with sandals and shorts. But the sun shines in most of the mornings, and with no interruption for the last two days, showing all the beauty of this city, founded by Norwegians (!).
Yes, because Antsirabe has very little of the dusty south, with low buildings. Here the houses remind the British cottages; they are built in red bricks with dark wooden floors, and have balconies and flourishing gardens. We often walk around with wide open eyes, dreaming of living in one of those. Here it is also possible to find a lot of vegetables and fruits, fresh and tasty, not to mention all the different home made cheeses, garnished with flowered spices…

But (there is a but), lately living in Antsirabe seems a bit harder. Tourists are lacking, due to the current political instability, and vendors are getting desperate. Some of them spot you from distance and offers 10 even 20 necklaces for 2 or 3 euro. We can see they need cash, and they are afraid things will get worst… we buy from some, but we can’t buy from all of them. When we go for a walk, we feel obliged to take street with fewer vendors not to get surrounded. It is sad to see, and as them we fear it might get worst.
We hope people will soon be able to enjoy again this beautiful town of Madagascar.

Bad news from Toliara

First of all: me and Birger are in Atsirabe. We're 3h south of the capital, and many hours north of Toliara. Here is so far calm. We're at the Norwegian missionary station, and we feel safe.

Yesterday afternoon (12/02/09) I got a phone call from the Italian embassy, Pretoria, South Africa. They called me because they new I am in Antsirabe, and the told me to stay here and absolutely not go back to Toliara. While talking with them, I got an sms. It was from Christine, the director of the Alliance Françoise who lives in our building in Toliara. She wrote that: looting restarted, and they (her and her son) were stuck in their flat. Esterel, an Italian neighbour restaurant, ran by a couple of friends, was attacked the evening before. Worried I called one of the two owners of Esterel. Instead I got answered by another person who spoke first Malagasy and then French to me. I asked of my friend, and with a rather scary tone I was answered that he was my friend from now! So, I called the other restaurant owner. He answered. The evening before someone attacked the restaurant, and his colleague, with a gun at his head, was forced to give away all his stuff, including passport. They haven't made it home, but to a safe place nearby, where other people also gathered. He said that the people attacked the stores owned by the karana (the Indo-Pakistani) and that the army was trying to protect the stores in the centre, with shooting and grenades. They had no phone credits left, but they were in contact with the embassy in Pretoria. Then I called Christine, she was home with her son, understandably worried. Our building is practically empty, only her, her son and a German-French couple are there now. Furthermore, our landlord is a karana as well. Anyway, it should be a safe place. It is the first time we hear of a vazaha place being attacked, and we hope it will not continue. We hardly find news on the internet, but we hope the situation will soon calm down.

I repeat: here in Antsirabe is totally calm.

Update: I spoke with some people from Toliara this morning (13/02/09), it is calm now (11.30AM), people are out.


Italiano: Prima di tutto: io e Birger siamo in Antsirabe. A 3 ore a sud della capitale e molte ore a nord di Tolira. Qui tutto e’ calmo. Siamo alla missione norvegese, al sicuro.
Ieri pomeriggio (12/02/09) mi ha telefonato l’ambascita italiana da Pretoria, Sud Africa. Sapevano che siamo ad Ansirabe, e mi hanno detto di restare e assolutamente di non tornare a Toliara. Nello stesso momento ho sicevuto un sms di Christine, direttrice de l’Alliance Françoise che vive nel nostro stesso tabile a Toliara. L’sms diceva che: furti e sommosse reano ricominciate, che lei e suo figlio erano bloccati nell’apprtamento, e che l’Esterel un ristorante italiano gestito da amici che si trova di fronte a casa nostra era stato attaccato la sera prima. Preoccupata ho chimato uno dei due gestori, ma mi ha risposto qualcuno in malgascio prima ed in francese poi. Ho chiesto del nostro amico ma ho ricevuto una risposta sarcastica, che diceva che da ora era lui il nostro amico. Quindi ho chiamato l’altro collega, che ha risposto. Mi ha detto che la sera prima qualcuno ha attaccato il ristorante e il suo collega, che con una pistola puntata contro ha docuto consegnre tutto, persino il passaporto. Non sono poi riusciti a tornare a casa, ma hanno trovato riparo in un posto sicuro li vicino, insieme ad altre persone. Per telefono mi ha anche detto che la folla ha tentato di attaccare i negozi dei karana (Indo-Pakistani), ma che l’esercito provava a difenderli sparando colpi di fucile e granate. Mi ha poi detto che erano rimsti senza credito telefonico ma che erano in contatto con l’ambasciata. Ho quindi chimato Christine, che era a casa con suo figlio, e comprensibilmente preoccupta. Il nostro stabile e’ al momento praticmente vuoto, solo lei, suo figlio ed una coppia franco-tedesca e’ li adesso. E’ la prima volta che sentiamo di un’attivita’ vazaha attaccata, e speriamo non sia la prima di molte. Non troviamo news su internet, ma speriamo che la situazione si calmi.

Ripeto: ad Ansirabe e’ calmo.

Aggiornamento: Ho parlato con delle persone a Toliara questa mattina (13/02/09), tutto e’ calmo al momento (11.30AM), le persone circolano liberamete.

The conflict escalates in Antananarivo

As many of you probably have seen in the news, things have not at all calmed down in Madagascar. Saturday, after a big rally in the capital, the crouds decidided to storm the President's palace, with the result that the police started to fire shots into the croud...

Read more here: http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/africa/7876543.stm

We were in fact on our way to the capital to meet our friends that were suppose to come to visit us from Europe, but after the dramatic event, they were forced to cancel/postpone.

We had a rather strange journey north from Tulear. Having a real malagasy experience with a Taxi Brousse that went "en panne" after 1 1/2 hours drive, leaving us on the side of the road for several hours until we were able to hitch a ride with a car that passed. We stopped in Antsirabe, which is 3 hours south of Tana. We are staying at my old school. It will be very interesting to see what happends the next days... The conflict will surely continue in Tana, and we fear that it will spread to other cities as well.

We'll keep you updated on the situation.

Waiting for what may or may not happen

More than one week has passed since we witnessed the looting from our safe balcony and windows in Tulear. It has been a strange week. As the true humans we are, our biggest worries were related to ourselves, and the question if our friends (Børre, Annelise and Jan) would be able to come as planned in February. After a week where good and bad news have been replacing each other, it seems however that the country is calming down. However, it still has two people saying they are presidents, and the capital has two mayors. So, yesterday we had the great news that we will have guests in a few days. We will have to travel the almost 1000 km to Tana to receive them. We hope for a nice calm trip back down to Tulear, stopping at National parks and in interesting villages, far away from demonstrations and politics.

The TV-stations don’t broadcast in Tulear at the moment, and now that we are actually interested in the President’s whereabouts. The few radio stations that broadcast from Madagascar either play music or talk in Malagasy. RFI (Radio France International) is our best news source, but it also reports from the rest of the world, (quite annoying actually!) and it not always very detailed on the situation. And …in good French manner it decided to go on strike for a day!

Our other source of news is the “jungle telegraph”, and these days it is very active. To understand what’s going on you have to talk to a lot of people, and of course they are not all telling the same things, so you have to try to deduct your own truth from all the different facts and rumours you hear. After the looting in Tulear many people, including us, were worried for the demonstration that was announced for Saturday. Since the stores owned by the not always popular Indo-Pakistani population were left untouched on Tuesday, many people feared that we would see a new day of looting. Over a dinner at our French neighbours the other day, different scenarios were discussed, and we even speculated on a possible evacuation. The next day it seemed totally ridiculous, since Saturday passed without major happenings, and we enjoyed a day by the pool in a calm city.

Now it seems that a new demonstration is planned every second day. We’re getting used to them, also because they go on quite peacefully.

We hope that a solution to this political deadlock can be peacefully achieved, as we think that Madagascar needs some stability. 

The following photos are form Lucien David, a university professor in Toliara and one of our host partners. 

The 2 contenders: the ex-mayor of Tana on the left, and president Ravalomanana on the right, from a malagasy newspaper:

A bike loaded with rice during the looting in Toliara:
People pillaging a rice storage close to our house. To empty the storage people needed almost 24h, and several people got injured:
This is the Tiko agency in Toliara, now is nearly impossible to find butter or milk and other goods (as they were produced and distributed only by Tiko):