An interesting article....

This article from The Guardian is worth reading:

Madagascar's capital is like a glimpse of medieval London, with a layer of grime
In parts of a city that is a wild architectural hybrid, it would not be surprising to see Falstaff emptying a bucket out of a window

From the sky I could see man's harvest of destruction. Flying into Madagascar, I looked down on vast tracts of naked planet that were once thick with trees. Nine-tenths of the original forest cover on this island, one of the world's most precious Edens, has been lost to human rapaciousness.

My bus bumped along the road from a modest airport towards the capital, Antananarivo, which means "city of the thousand", supposedly because a thousand warriors once protected it. We wound through streets that long ago became inadequate for the teeming traffic that ebbs and flows, on wheels and feet, through a narrow corridor of shopfronts and market stalls – everyone has something to sell.

We crawled behind motorcyclists and minibuses, pedestrians balancing giant bags or cardboard boxes on their heads, and ancient taxis whose drivers are known to carry petrol inside plastic water bottles and to glide downhill with the engine off to save every drop. We were on a hillside and occasionally we could look down into the basin and see farmers wading through lush paddy fields.

On the horizon loomed a gigantic and unattractive hotel. It was built by the Chinese, we were told, to be ready for an African Union summit, but when Madagascar experienced a bloody coup earlier this year, the summit was cancelled and the hotel became a monstrous white elephant.
Read more...

Madagascar falls 40 places in freedom of press ranking

Madagascar falls from 94th to 134th place on Reporters Without Borders’ ranking of freedom of press and medias in 2009. It is tempting to blame this development on the coup d’etat, and the Rajoelina’s regime, but the truth is more nuanced. In fact, for more than half of the period Marc Ravalomanana was still in power.

Arriving in Madagascar, I was in fact a bit surprised by the media situation. In Toliara we had two TV-channels. One was the national TV-channel TVM, where the news basically were dedicated to whatever the president was doing or saying that day. The other channel, MBS, was owned by the president himself…

When the political crisis escalated, the news on both channels was totally useless, since they didn’t report on anything that was happening. (Our only source of information was Radio France International (RFI), when it wasn’t on strike). Then both channels were attacked and looted, so Toliara remained without TV for about 2 months. Now, we are back watching the national TV (the only channel here), and it is actually slightly better than under Ravalomanana. We’re not seeing only the president, but also what the government is doing, sometimes it is even possible to understand that there is an opposition.

Judging from the TV the members of government are very nice and popular, as they are always being welcomed by nice people smiling and waving. These people are of course rewarded with nice gifts on behalf of the regime, always thoroughly made account for by the reporters.

When it comes to newspapers, there are some choices, and they provide less partisan information than the TV. The problem is that they all come from Tana which means that at the earliest they are available in Toliara the afternoon one day after they came out. That’s in the fourth city of Madagascar, with flight connection with the capital on a daily bases. Access to newspapers on the countryside is utopia.

This is without mentioning the problem of actual access, since very few people can afford to have a TV, to buy newspapers or to access the internet. The lack of access to information is an evident problem that we experience every day with our students. It feels very awkward to be asked for information on current affairs by the Malagasy, while we would like to understand more with their help.

But maybe there is hope. Yesterday the minister of communication went out on TV and declared that after many years under the rule of Ratsiraka and Ravalomanana people are finally free to express their opinion in Madagascar. However, she said, there are certain rules to follow…

As a lawyer, I would like to remind her that she also has certain rules to follow when it comes to making rules.





All photos by Lucien David

An update on the crisis in Madagascar

We, not to mention the Malagasy population, were hoping that the political crisis was going towards a solution. Three former Presidents and the acting president of the transition had two meetings in Maputo. It seemed like they had come to an agreement concerning a consensus transitional government, but I guess the agreement from the first meeting was just hiding their differences. During the second meeting, the four movements were not able to agree on the positions in the transitional government.

Some days after returning from Maputo, the ”de facto” president Andry Rajoelina, decided to ”implement” the agreement by creating his own new ”consensus” government. This decision seems to have two major consequences:

-The three other movements are now united against Rajoelina, something that 6 months back would have been nothing less than a miracle. These movements are led by a dubious bunch, three former presidents: Albert Zafy (impeached for corruption in 1996), Didier Ratisraka (the dictator given the boot by the people/Ravolomanana in 2002), Marc Ravalomanana (chased out of the country by ex-DJ Rajoelina, his followers and the military in 2009).

-The people in Tana seem to be reacting against Rajoelinas movement’s unilateralism and lack of democratic spirit. (All demonstrations have so far been suppressed). The “united” opposition has called for a big demonstration the 20th of September, and a large turnout is to be expected.

So far it seems like the demonstrations have been concentrated to Tana. We hope that they will be kept peaceful. However, if there is one thing we’ve learned from living here for almost a year: to predict what will happen when Malagasy politicians are calling the shots is close to impossible.

More troubles

Again. Yes, unfortunately it is happening again.
Yesterday the pro-Ravalomanana were demonstrating. They met a strong repression by the army: 2 people died and many are injured. The Min. of defence declared on RFI that there was no shooting... but by hearing the registration of the protests and by looking at some photos, it seems very well the opposite.
NB Toliara is calm.

More info:
in english
http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/africa/8008979.stm
in french
http://www.topmada.com/2009/04/20/repression-meurtriere-de-la-manifestation-des-legalistes-photos/
http://rfi.fr/actufr/articles/112/article_80329.asp

Italiano: Ancora. Sta succedendo di nuovo. Ieri i sostenitori di Ravalomanana stavano dimonstrando, fino a quando l'esercito ha sparato: 2 morti e diversi feriti. Il Min. della difesa ha dichiarato alla radio RFI che l'esercito non ha sparato... l'audio della protesta e le foto sembrano dimonstrare il contrario.
NB A Toliara tutto e' calmo.

A life in crises?

Crisis is a popular word these days. To mention a few, we are (in theory) affected by the global financial crisis, the global warming crisis, the socio-economic crisis and the political crisis in Madagascar. Affected by all these crises you should think that we live a quite tough life, but as our visitors from Norway could witness, our life is far from very tough. Except for an exceptional identity crisis or the more common “I have to run to the bathroom – crisis”, we are by no means in need of crisis management.

To say that we live a totally normal life these days is to exaggerate, since waking up to the sounds of grenades and gunshots is not a part of our daily routine. Neither is to wake up with police equipped with Kaleshnikovs and bulletproof vests, having a check point outside our house. However, a part from those incidents and the fact that we are very attentive to the news, our life is pretty normal. We have restarted our English teaching, and the students seemed very happy to have us back. Yesterday we had a conversation class, where the discussion of course was the political situation of Madagascar. Some of them are very well informed about what’s going on, others are relying on information they are getting from others. In a situation like this it is very interesting to hear all the rumors that go around, some of them quite spectacular.

The situation in the capital however, is reported to be critical. The opposition claims to control the army, and gave the president a deadline to leave his post. However, the president has made it clear that he will not do so, even after the opposition took control of prime minister’s office. So we are back to the same question we have been asking ourselves for the last two months: “What will happen next?” The president seems isolated, but how isolated is he, since he’s not leaving the presidential palace? Is the army really controlled by the opposition, or is it not that simple? We have given up on the guessing game, it’s just to wait and see…

The Americans are as usually having a bit more of a precautionary approach. The US Embassy has asked their citizens to consider leaving the country, and the substantial amount of American Peace Corps volunteers that are here, are according to our information being brought to South-Africa.

It was interesting to see the reactions of our students when we told them about the Americans leaving the country. We often get the feeling that many do not understand the gravity of the situation for the country. After a week as “tourists” we saw how difficult the situation is for the tourist business. We were basically alone in all hotels along the road between Antsirabe and Tulear. We saw businesses were people were laid off. In the magnificent National Parc Isalo, we were the only visitors that day. In Anakao, south of Tulear, three out of about 20 hotels bothered to be open. And of course, most likely, this is just the beginning…

In Tana there have been new rounds of looting just recently. The country has proved itself unable to protect private investments, making it impossible for foreign investors who used to see Madagascar as a country of opportunity. Tourists won’t come in big numbers for a long time. Another crisis is in the air…

Italiano: Una vita in crisi?

Crisi e’ una parola popolare di questi tempi. Per esempio siamo (in teoria) in piena crisi finaziaria globale, c’e’ la crisi per il cambiamento climatico, e la crisi socio-economica nonche’ politica in Madagascar... Con tutte queste crisi penserete che la nostra vita qui e’ abbastanza difficile. Invece, come hanno constatato i nostri ospiti norvegesi, il nostro quotidiano e’ lontano dall’essere complicato. Eccetto per le eccezionali crisi d’identita’: la piu’ comune “devo correre al bagno-crisi”, non abbiamo bisogno di una speciale unita’ di gestione della crisi.

In ogni caso, dire che abbiamo una vita totalmente normale in questi giorni, e’ esagerato, dato che svegliarsi al suono delle granate e colpi di fucile non e’ parte della nostra normale routine. Come non lo e’ svegliarsi e trovare la polizia armata di Kaleshnikovs e giubbotti antiproiettili per creare un posto di blocco davanti a casa nostra. In ogni caso, a parte questo tipo d’incidenti ed il fatto che siamo molto attenti alle notizie, la nostra vita e’ piuttosto normale. Abbiamo ricominciato con l’insegnamento dell’inglese, e gli studenti sono sembrati molto contenti di riaverci tra loro. Ieri facevamo conversazione in classe, e la discussione era naturalmente sulla crisi politica in Madagscar. Alcuni studenti sono molto ben informati su quello che accade, mente altri si basano piuttosto sui sentito dire. In situazioni come questa e’ molto interessante sentire tutte le voci che girano, alcune di queste sono alquanto spettacolari.

In ogni caso la situazione nella capitale appare critica. L’opposizione afferma di controllare l’esercito, e ha dato al presidente un ultimatum per lasciare l’incarico. Ciononostante, il presidente ha rifiutato di andarsene, pur sapendo che l’ufficio del primo ministro e’ ormai nelle mani dell’opposizione. Quindi torniamo a chiederci la stessa domanda che ci siamo chiesti negli ultimi due mesi: “cosa succedera’ adesso?” Il presidente sembra isolato, ma quanto e’ isolato dato che rifiuta di lasciare il palazzo presidenziale? L’opposizione controlla davvero l’esercito o ne controlla solo una parte? Abbiamo smesso il gioco del tirare a indovinare, aspettiamo per vedere...

Gli Amercani hanno come al solito in queste cose, un approccio piu’ cauto. L’Ambasciata americana ha chiesto ai suoi cittadini di lasciare il paese, ad esempio i numerosi volontari (peace corps) normalmente presenti qui, sono stati trasferiti in Sud Africa.

Vedere le reazioni dei nostri studenti alla notizia che della partena degli americani, e’ stato interessante. In quanto spesso ci sembra che molti qui non si rendano pienamente conto della gravita’ di quello che sta succedendo. Dopo una settimana da “turisti” con i nostri amici venuti a trovarci, abbiamo visto quanto e’ difficile la situazione per gli operatori turistici. Eravamo infatti praticamente soli nei vari hotels sulla strada tra Antsirabe e Toliara. Abbiamo visitato diversi posti dove il personale e’ in cassa integrazione (non pagato). Nel magnifico Parco Nazionale dell’Isalo eravamo gli unici turisti. Ad Anakao, sud di Toliara, solo tre dei circa 20 hotel, erano aperti. E naturlamente, molto probabilmente, questo e’ solo l’inizio...

In Tana recentemente ci sono stati dei nuovi furti di massa. Il Paese ha dimostrato di essere incapace di difendere gli investimenti dei privati, perdendo l’opportunita’ di attirare investimenti dagli stranieri che vedevano il Madagascar come un posto sicuro. Probabilmente i turisti non si faranno vedere per un bel po. Un altra crisi nell’aria...

Madagascar: Waiting and uncertainty follows “Red Saturday”

from http://www.afrika.no/Detailed/18010.html
By Venusia Vinciguerra and Lucien David (photo) for www. afrika.no in Madagascar | 03.03.2009



The Tiko stores are the property of Madagascar's president Ravalomanana. Many of them were looted during the unrest (Photo: Lucien David)


Antsirabe (Madagascar - Venusia Vinciguerra) - Uncertainty is now the most common feeling for the people living in Madagascar. The population, as well as the expatriates in the country, appears exhausted from the constant feeling that something big will soon happen, but then nothing seems to really happen.
Andry Rajoelina, former major of Antananarivo, proclaimed himself new head of state, and attempted to create a parallel administration and install his ministers into position. He started his “orange revolution” after president Ravalomanana closed his TV channel, VIVA TV, due to the broadcasting of an interview with the former president, Didier Ratsiraka.
The young Rajoelina called for a general strike in Antananarivo on January 26th, a strike that turned into a mass looting in the capital. The main factories and retails stores of Tiko, the president’s company, were attacked, robbed and destroyed. In addition, his TV and radio channels where destroyed, together with the national TV and radio channels, leaving most of Madagascar without broadcasts. The mass pillaging went on, destroying the few well functioning malls of the city, and emptying many rice storages, owned by privates. leaving the impression that the looting was not driven only by political intentions, but also by desperation or by opportunism.
The same escalation was witnessed the day after in other cities, as Antsirabe, Fianarantsoa, Mahajanga and Toliara, where Tiko storages and stores as well as rice reserves were emptied and vandalized. Looting continued over night between Tuesday 27th and Wednesday 28th. Reportedly about 100 people died or got injured, mostly due to accidents connected to the pillaging, while the army remained mostly an observer of the happenings. In Toliara there was a broad and massive participation, entire families carried as many rice bags as they could handle: on bikes, rickshaws, carts or on their shoulders. Also children were involved, and some made themselves thieves for a bag of orange juice, or for parts of broken toys. BIANCO, an anticorruption agency financed partly by Norway, was also vandalized: computers were stolen and sold, documents were thoroughly burned (!), and even windows, toilets, cables and roof’s components disappeared. The looting left the city of Toliara with a feeling of Wild West in the air. Stores remained closed for some days; especially those run by Indo-Pakistanis, who fear the anger of the Malagasy people against their commercial supremacy. Some goods are now scarce in the city: milk and butter, which are produced and distributed only by Tiko, but also oil is hard to find. Many foresee an increase of rice prices, the main staple for Malagasy people, and market prices for vegetables and fruits rose already.
Some weeks passed in uncertainty and apparent calmness, until Saturday 7th of February. Samedi Rouge (Red Saturday), as it is called by the Malagasy press, witnessed the shooting against the demonstrators who crossed the “red line” in front of the presidential palace in Antananarivo, making 28 victims (including a reporter), and numerous injured. A video reconstruction of the shooting is now being sold on DVDs and publicly screened in several Malagasy towns.
Ravalomanana did not recognize Rajoelina as a counterpart for negotiations in the beginning, and discharged and replaced him from his post as mayor of the capital. Predictably Rajoelina did not accept this decision, and went on to designate another replacement, leaving the city with two unelected mayors.
Finally on February 23rd, negotiations between Mark Ravalomanana and Andry Rajoelina started, with the assistance of representatives from the Council of Christian Churches in Madagascar (FFKM). Three meetings between the two contenders increased the hope for a peaceful solution. However, the hope diminished when the president did not personally attend the 4th meeting. Predictably Rajoelina declared the end of negotiations, and did not show up to the next meeting. Also the archbishop of Antananarivo, Odon Razanakolona, one of the facilitators, quit the negotiations, as he saw no developments. As a result, demonstration restarted, leading to two other fatalities in Fianarantsoa. UN Secretary General Ban Ki-moon appointed the former foreign minister of Mali, Tiebilé Dramé, as facilitator, and asked the archbishop to rejoin the negotiations.
The consequences of this political instability are numerous. Among others, the crisis of the tourism market, with nearly 100% cancellations, and 50% workers sent home according to the FHORM (Fédération des hôteliers et restaurateurs de Madagascar), and the Malagasy National Tourism Office, who made an official declaration asking the parties to quickly find an agreement. Another immediate consequence is the delay of the start of the new university year, with even the risk of a year cancellation due to lack of security (L’express de Madagascar, 28.02.2009).
Many are tired of the president’s actions, denouncing him of focusing on his own interests over those of the population. At the same time, it is not clear if the young businessman and former DJ Rajoelina will be the answer. It seems like the ex-major will continue his efforts to remove the president; but after the last events in Antananarivo, his popularity seems uncertain. Many see in this situation a repetition of Ravalomanana’s struggle to take the power from Didier Ratsiraka in 2002. However, there is a core difference: in 2002 the two contenders where conflicting over a contested election, while Rajoelina’s current request is not related to any electoral event.
Finally, this contest involves two merinas (the ethnic group of the highlands), and might not seem a fair play to the coastal population, who would like to see their ethnicities well represented, maybe by a president.
Uncertainty spreads in Madagascar, people wait.

- What is going on?

First of all, things seem to be more and more back to normal for most people in Madagascar. However, there are at least two people that are not living a normal life these days. The two main characters in this "wanna be democratic and non-violent coup d'etat like situation" are not doing anything that we find normal, considering the situation. As soon as we feel that we understand some of the motivations behind their actions, they go out and do something unpredictable.

The self-proclaimed president/ex-mayor, yesterday finally achieved one of his main goals, to physically install his "ministers" in four of the ministries. If he achieved this because he asked wifes and children of militaries to go in front of his supporters, I don't know (he actually didn't show up himself). According to reports, the presence of young girls dressed in orange (Orange Revolution, like in Ukraine) with mini-skirt (tbc), where especially noticable in front of the protestors. As could be expected, the military forces were so stunned by this move that they let the croud enter the empty ministry buildings.

The first one to take office as a "Minister" was our old friend from our troubled visa days, mr. directeur de Cabinet (see earlier blogpost) in the Ministere de l'Interieure. But our promoted friend didn't really last long. After the "orange movement" had celebrated their victory during the evening, the Ministries were once again brought back into the control of the president, by the help of the army.

While all this is going on, the negotiations between the two parties are apparently making some progress. The situation is getting more and more confusing. There could be a solution tomorrow, but more likely 6 months is a better guess. The good thing is that the violent conflict doesn't seem to be escalating. If any of the parties is seeming to gain support, it's the president's. However, at the moment none of them seems to have a high standing among the people. And for what these two are doing to the country, I totally understand them.
Get over with it - and let the people live their normal life!

The conflict escalates in Antananarivo

As many of you probably have seen in the news, things have not at all calmed down in Madagascar. Saturday, after a big rally in the capital, the crouds decidided to storm the President's palace, with the result that the police started to fire shots into the croud...

Read more here: http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/africa/7876543.stm

We were in fact on our way to the capital to meet our friends that were suppose to come to visit us from Europe, but after the dramatic event, they were forced to cancel/postpone.

We had a rather strange journey north from Tulear. Having a real malagasy experience with a Taxi Brousse that went "en panne" after 1 1/2 hours drive, leaving us on the side of the road for several hours until we were able to hitch a ride with a car that passed. We stopped in Antsirabe, which is 3 hours south of Tana. We are staying at my old school. It will be very interesting to see what happends the next days... The conflict will surely continue in Tana, and we fear that it will spread to other cities as well.

We'll keep you updated on the situation.

Visa-last chapter

We went down to the Ministry yesterday. We came back with two Visas for one year! We can hardly believe it! It seemed so easy. Just a bit waiting. No begging, no humiliation, no name dropping… It was there. Ready for us!
Today we are suppose to pay for our little warrior, and then we’re on our way down south. 954 kilometers away is Tulear. We’re planning on spending some days on the journey. Plenty of things to see on the way. Hope to get some nice photos. Maybe we’ll be in our own little apartment from Sunday!

Italiano: Siamo andati al ministero ieri. E siamo tornati con due Visti per un anno! Facciamo fatica a crederci! É sembrato fin troppo facile. Solo un po’ di attesa, nessuna umiliazione o nomi da fare… era lì, pronto per noi! Oggi dovremo pagare il nostro piccolo guerriero, e poi diretti a sud. A 954 kilometri c’e’ Tulear. Pensiamo di metterci qualche giorno, dato che ci sono un sacco di cose da vedere per strada. Speriamo di fare qualche bella foto. E, se tutto va bene, domenica saremo nel nostro appartamento!

The little warrior

Buying a used car in the city where 2CVs have eternal life wasn’t easy either. We looked and looked for a little 4X4 warrior that would stay with us for our 14 months here. We read “les petites annoncés” everyday in the newspapers, we walked around in Avenue de l’Indépendance (where many sellers stand beside their cars), and phoned all the dealers we found on our phone book from 1998-99 (until we found one from 2005). Finally, a phone number worked and a man hardly understandable answered: yes, we have a little 4x4 a Suzuki Samurai, interesting price. What a perfect name for our little warrior! It was as we wanted it: little, rough, a bit worn out and rusty, but very charming. Yes, the price was interesting, and we just needed someone to check the engine. Olsen was our man (he is Malagasy but is great grandfather was Norwegian, therefore the interesting surname); he is the driver at the Norwegian mission and also a mechanic. He was positive when we saw the car together: the engine was good (just the transmission to change, which was ok for the owners to do). Later he seemed a bit more skeptical. As all the Malagasy, he asked us why we didn’t buy a new car, or at least a newer car. We found out that to try to convince them that vazahas like us don’t have enough money for a newer car is useless.

The weekend went with offers and counteroffers via phone. Finally, we agree on a price, which includes all the paper work done by the dealer (who is more a fixer, he has a office with his mum-a layer- where they give assistance on…everything!). Thursday is the big Samurai day: we’ll get the car keys and documents (other papers will wait us in Tulear), but before we have to pay the 35 million FMG cash!!

 

Italiano: comprare un auto nuova in una città nella quale le 2cavalli hanno vita eterna non è stato facile. Abbiamo cercato per un piccolo guerriero 4X4 che potesse stare con noi nei prossimi 14mesi qui. Abbiamo letto tutti giorni “les petites annoncés” sui giornali, camminato in Avenue de l’Indépendance (dove venditori attendono vicini alle auto in vendita), e telefonato a tutte le concessionarie trovate nell’elenco telefonico 1998-99 (finche abbiamo trovato quello 2005). Alla fine un uomo difficilmente comprensibile ha risposto: si, abbiamo una piccola 4X4, una Suzuki Samurai ad un prezzo interessante. Abbiamo pensato che fosse un nome perfetto per il nostro piccolo guerriero! Era come lo volevamo: piccolo, rustico, un po’ vecchiotto e arrugginito ma certamente affascinante. Si, anche il prezzo era interessante, non mancava che far controllare il motore. Il nostro uomo per il lavoro era Olsen (che è Malgascio ma con un bisnonno norvegese che ne spiega il cognome interessante); è l’autista della missione norvegese nonché meccanico. Il suo responso è stato positivo quando abbiamo visto l’auto insieme (solo la trasmissione da cambiare, che i proprietari hanno accettato di fare). Pii tardi però Olsen è sembrato più scettico. Come tutti i Malgasci, ci ha chiesto perché non compravamo un’auto nuova , o almeno più nuova. Abbiamo scoperto che provare a convincerli che vazahas come noi non sempre hanno abbastanza soldi per un’auto nuova, è inutile.

Il finesettimana l’abbiamo passato facendo offerte e controfferte via telefono. Alla fine abbiamo trovato un’intesa sul prezzo, che include tutte le spese per i documenti fatti dal venditore (che è più un azzeccagarbugli, ed ha un ufficio con sua madre- avvocato- in cui danno assistenza su…tutto!). Giovedì è il gran Samurai-day: avremo le chiavi della macchina, i documenti (alcuni ci attenderanno a Tulear), ma prima dobbiamo pagare i 35milioni FMG contanti!! 

I did it

Yes, is true, I eat raw fish... it was sooo good, but I promise I wont do it again! ;-) 

Si, lo ammetto, ho mangiato pesce crudo... era buonissimo. Ma lo prometto, non lo faro' piu'!

Still Waiting in Tana

Seeing Madame Vice-president de Senate brought us to Monsieur le Directeur de Cabinet in the Ministry of Internal Affairs. From him we have two days in a row been led to an office where Madam chef de Service is absent. So in a sense the status is still the same; we have still not applied for a visa... You should think we have been here for a week.  We hope to be able to move on to Tulear by the end of the next week. How, we don’t know yet. We are hoping to buy a car, but we have so far not done any progress on that front. 

Madame Vice-President de Senat

First day in Antananarivo. 

We’re sitting in a large corner office with a desk that confirms the impression given by the front office. We are about to meet an important person. Looking like a cliché tourist, wearing zip-off pants and sneakers - topped by guide book authors’ all time favorite: the hidden money belt, I feel somewhat out of place. 

Madame or actually doctor Vice-President of the Senate of the democratic republic of Madagascar greets us in Norwegian… She excuses herself for haven forgotten most of the Norwegian, so we continue in French. This former Professor at the University of Toliara was one of the initiators of the exchange we are part of, now we’re here to get information on how to obtain a visa extension. 

This is a woman that immediately give you a good impression; she is welcoming and interested, but still to the point. She picks up one of the three phones on the table in front of us. In Madagascar even the politicians are using three different SIM-cards – calling from one company to another is expensive. Madame has told us that she will call the Monsieur le Directeur de Cabinet. She explains that he is number two, after the minister in the ministry of internal affairs. We felt no need to ask why she didn’t call the minister himself…
She explains us that in two days we can go to the Ministry of Internal Affairs, we will be met by Monsieur le Directeur de Cabinet himself. He will see to it that we get an extension of our visa. 

We leave the office somewhat confused. We knew we were going to meet an important person, but assumed that she would just direct us to the right office, maybe give us the names of some key persons to contact. If Monsieur le Directeur de Cabinet delivers we will obtain our visa within a few days. With stories of other Norwegians in mind, waiting three weeks for the visa, we feel very privileged, but still somewhat confused about this way of saving the not so valuable time of NVIPs (Not Very Important People) like us.