Saturday, February 21, 2009

Calvin (Andry TGV) and Hobbes (Ravalo)?

shall we translate it in malagasy and make flyers of it?







Grazie Silvia Jun per la striscia.

Friday, February 20, 2009

- What is going on?

First of all, things seem to be more and more back to normal for most people in Madagascar. However, there are at least two people that are not living a normal life these days. The two main characters in this "wanna be democratic and non-violent coup d'etat like situation" are not doing anything that we find normal, considering the situation. As soon as we feel that we understand some of the motivations behind their actions, they go out and do something unpredictable.

The self-proclaimed president/ex-mayor, yesterday finally achieved one of his main goals, to physically install his "ministers" in four of the ministries. If he achieved this because he asked wifes and children of militaries to go in front of his supporters, I don't know (he actually didn't show up himself). According to reports, the presence of young girls dressed in orange (Orange Revolution, like in Ukraine) with mini-skirt (tbc), where especially noticable in front of the protestors. As could be expected, the military forces were so stunned by this move that they let the croud enter the empty ministry buildings.

The first one to take office as a "Minister" was our old friend from our troubled visa days, mr. directeur de Cabinet (see earlier blogpost) in the Ministere de l'Interieure. But our promoted friend didn't really last long. After the "orange movement" had celebrated their victory during the evening, the Ministries were once again brought back into the control of the president, by the help of the army.

While all this is going on, the negotiations between the two parties
are apparently making some progress. The situation is getting more and more confusing. There could be a solution tomorrow, but more likely 6 months is a better guess. The good thing is that the violent conflict doesn't seem to be escalating. If any of the parties is seeming to gain support, it's the president's. However, at the moment none of them seems to have a high standing among the people. And for what these two are doing to the country, I totally understand them.
Get over with it - and let the people live their normal life!

Wednesday, February 18, 2009

(Forced) stay in Antsirabe

We are in the very nice town of Anstirabe. It is a mountain city at about 3h south of the capital Antananarivo. Here it’s summer, but the temperature is a lot lower than in Toliara. We arrived here on our attempt to go to Tana to receive our long awaited guests. As most of you know, they had to postpone their trip, and we stopped in Antsirabe (also to get some medical controls). We got welcomed by rain (it is the season now) and chilli temperature…especially for us, used to the torrid south. Against us, the fact that we came not well equipped for this fresh welcome, and could only go around with sandals and shorts. But the sun shines in most of the mornings, and with no interruption for the last two days, showing all the beauty of this city, founded by Norwegians (!).
Yes, because Antsirabe has very little of the dusty south, with low buildings. Here the houses remind the British cottages; they are built in red bricks with dark wooden floors, and have balconies and flourishing gardens. We often walk around with wide open eyes, dreaming of living in one of those. Here it is also possible to find a lot of vegetables and fruits, fresh and tasty, not to mention all the different home made cheeses, garnished with flowered spices…

But (there is a but), lately living in Antsirabe seems a bit harder. Tourists are lacking, due to the current political instability, and vendors are getting desperate. Some of them spot you from distance and offers 10 even 20 necklaces for 2 or 3 euro. We can see they need cash, and they are afraid things will get worst… we buy from some, but we can’t buy from all of them. When we go for a walk, we feel obliged to take street with fewer vendors not to get surrounded. It is sad to see, and as them we fear it might get worst.
We hope people will soon be able to enjoy again this beautiful town of Madagascar.

Friday, February 13, 2009

Bad news from Toliara

First of all: me and Birger are in Atsirabe. We're 3h south of the capital, and many hours north of Toliara. Here is so far calm. We're at the Norwegian missionary station, and we feel safe.

Yesterday afternoon (12/02/09) I got a phone call from the Italian embassy, Pretoria, South Africa. They called me because they new I am in Antsirabe, and the told me to stay here and absolutely not go back to Toliara. While talking with them, I got an sms. It was from Christine, the director of the Alliance Françoise who lives in our building in Toliara. She wrote that: looting restarted, and they (her and her son) were stuck in their flat. Esterel, an Italian neighbour restaurant, ran by a couple of friends, was attacked the evening before. Worried I called one of the two owners of Esterel. Instead I got answered by another person who spoke first Malagasy and then French to me. I asked of my friend, and with a rather scary tone I was answered that he was my friend from now! So, I called the other restaurant owner. He answered. The evening before someone attacked the restaurant, and his colleague, with a gun at his head, was forced to give away all his stuff, including passport. They haven't made it home, but to a safe place nearby, where other people also gathered. He said that the people attacked the stores owned by the karana (the Indo-Pakistani) and that the army was trying to protect the stores in the centre, with shooting and grenades. They had no phone credits left, but they were in contact with the embassy in Pretoria. Then I called Christine, she was home with her son, understandably worried. Our building is practically empty, only her, her son and a German-French couple are there now. Furthermore, our landlord is a karana as well. Anyway, it should be a safe place. It is the first time we hear of a vazaha place being attacked, and we hope it will not continue. We hardly find news on the internet, but we hope the situation will soon calm down.

I repeat: here in Antsirabe is totally calm.

Update: I spoke with some people from Toliara this morning (13/02/09), it is calm now (11.30AM), people are out.


Italiano: Prima di tutto: io e Birger siamo in Antsirabe. A 3 ore a sud della capitale e molte ore a nord di Tolira. Qui tutto e’ calmo. Siamo alla missione norvegese, al sicuro.
Ieri pomeriggio (12/02/09) mi ha telefonato l’ambascita italiana da Pretoria, Sud Africa. Sapevano che siamo ad Ansirabe, e mi hanno detto di restare e assolutamente di non tornare a Toliara. Nello stesso momento ho sicevuto un sms di Christine, direttrice de l’Alliance Françoise che vive nel nostro stesso tabile a Toliara. L’sms diceva che: furti e sommosse reano ricominciate, che lei e suo figlio erano bloccati nell’apprtamento, e che l’Esterel un ristorante italiano gestito da amici che si trova di fronte a casa nostra era stato attaccato la sera prima. Preoccupata ho chimato uno dei due gestori, ma mi ha risposto qualcuno in malgascio prima ed in francese poi. Ho chiesto del nostro amico ma ho ricevuto una risposta sarcastica, che diceva che da ora era lui il nostro amico. Quindi ho chiamato l’altro collega, che ha risposto. Mi ha detto che la sera prima qualcuno ha attaccato il ristorante e il suo collega, che con una pistola puntata contro ha docuto consegnre tutto, persino il passaporto. Non sono poi riusciti a tornare a casa, ma hanno trovato riparo in un posto sicuro li vicino, insieme ad altre persone. Per telefono mi ha anche detto che la folla ha tentato di attaccare i negozi dei karana (Indo-Pakistani), ma che l’esercito provava a difenderli sparando colpi di fucile e granate. Mi ha poi detto che erano rimsti senza credito telefonico ma che erano in contatto con l’ambasciata. Ho quindi chimato Christine, che era a casa con suo figlio, e comprensibilmente preoccupta. Il nostro stabile e’ al momento praticmente vuoto, solo lei, suo figlio ed una coppia franco-tedesca e’ li adesso. E’ la prima volta che sentiamo di un’attivita’ vazaha attaccata, e speriamo non sia la prima di molte. Non troviamo news su internet, ma speriamo che la situazione si calmi.

Ripeto: ad Ansirabe e’ calmo.

Aggiornamento: Ho parlato con delle persone a Toliara questa mattina (13/02/09), tutto e’ calmo al momento (11.30AM), le persone circolano liberamete.

Monday, February 9, 2009

The conflict escalates in Antananarivo

As many of you probably have seen in the news, things have not at all calmed down in Madagascar. Saturday, after a big rally in the capital, the crouds decidided to storm the President's palace, with the result that the police started to fire shots into the croud...

Read more here: http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/africa/7876543.stm

We were in fact on our way to the capital to meet our friends that were suppose to come to visit us from Europe, but after the dramatic event, they were forced to cancel/postpone.

We had a rather strange journey north from Tulear. Having a real malagasy experience with a Taxi Brousse that went "en panne" after 1 1/2 hours drive, leaving us on the side of the road for several hours until we were able to hitch a ride with a car that passed. We stopped in Antsirabe, which is 3 hours south of Tana. We are staying at my old school. It will be very interesting to see what happends the next days... The conflict will surely continue in Tana, and we fear that it will spread to other cities as well.

We'll keep you updated on the situation.

Friday, February 6, 2009

Waiting for what may or may not happen

More than one week has passed since we witnessed the looting from our safe balcony and windows in Tulear. It has been a strange week. As the true humans we are, our biggest worries were related to ourselves, and the question if our friends (Børre, Annelise and Jan) would be able to come as planned in February. After a week where good and bad news have been replacing each other, it seems however that the country is calming down. However, it still has two people saying they are presidents, and the capital has two mayors. So, yesterday we had the great news that we will have guests in a few days. We will have to travel the almost 1000 km to Tana to receive them. We hope for a nice calm trip back down to Tulear, stopping at National parks and in interesting villages, far away from demonstrations and politics.

The TV-stations don’t broadcast in Tulear at the moment, and now that we are actually interested in the President’s whereabouts. The few radio stations that broadcast from Madagascar either play music or talk in Malagasy. RFI (Radio France International) is our best news source, but it also reports from the rest of the world, (quite annoying actually!) and it not always very detailed on the situation. And …in good French manner it decided to go on strike for a day!

Our other source of news is the “jungle telegraph”, and these days it is very active. To understand what’s going on you have to talk to a lot of people, and of course they are not all telling the same things, so you have to try to deduct your own truth from all the different facts and rumours you hear. After the looting in Tulear many people, including us, were worried for the demonstration that was announced for Saturday. Since the stores owned by the not always popular Indo-Pakistani population were left untouched on Tuesday, many people feared that we would see a new day of looting. Over a dinner at our French neighbours the other day, different scenarios were discussed, and we even speculated on a possible evacuation. The next day it seemed totally ridiculous, since Saturday passed without major happenings, and we enjoyed a day by the pool in a calm city.

Now it seems that a new demonstration is planned every second day. We’re getting used to them, also because they go on quite peacefully.

We hope that a solution to this political deadlock can be peacefully achieved, as we think that Madagascar needs some stability. 

The following photos are form Lucien David, a university professor in Toliara and one of our host partners. 

The 2 contenders: the ex-mayor of Tana on the left, and president Ravalomanana on the right, from a malagasy newspaper:
A bike loaded with rice during the looting in Toliara:
People pillaging a rice storage close to our house. To empty the storage people needed almost 24h, and several people got injured:
This is the Tiko agency in Toliara, now is nearly impossible to find butter or milk and other goods (as they were produced and distributed only by Tiko):